We got into Hanoi yesterday at 4.30am after a surprisingly restful over night train trip. I haggled with several taxi drivers making sure we weren't scammed - whenever possible make sure that the meter is off and state a price you are willing to pay. Having early check in was great and we had a free upgrade to the top floor!
After laying down for what seemed like five minutes we went down to the buffet breakfast which incidentally has great pork and vegetable spring rolls. We followed or intended to follow the google map I had previously inserted in my Hanoi post. We only got one eighth into it ( 3 hours of walking) when we decided to give it a miss. Not that it wasn't interesting but just because we got so immersed at the checkpoints.
We started off at Hoam Kiem Lake a mere 10 minute walk away and when about to cross the famous Red Bridge I remembered my bare arms so we had to backtrack and go shopping for scarves, I purchased a whisp of silk to cover my offending limbs. ( I had been kicked out of the temple on the Chinese Border the day before due to aforementioned limbs). We went to the temple on the lake and learned about the turtle who carried a famous warriors sword - I am already every hazy on this legend.
We walked along many streets each named for its wares. In silk street I purchased a teal dress - $40USD cheap by Cairns standards but expensive I feel for Vietnam - I had however bargained her down from $65. ( the only place I don't let my inner Asian out is in the supermarket - I have embraced the sport of haggling with gusto)
The sun is coming up as I type and the noises of the motorbikes are becoming more insistent, anyway returning to yesterday - we walked along several more streets - using the map reading / orienteering skills taught to me by a fellow teacher back in Oz - and enjoyed fresh juices in a great cafe, where the most memorable thing was the WC I had to step up 75cm onto a pedestal where the toilet was perched. There was no room for my feet at the front as it was placed as if on the edge of a cliff- sorry to digress from our walking trail but I was so captivated that I forced my two companions to also enjoy this novel experience !
We asked the friendly staff to hail a cab for us to go to the Temple of Literature which although only 2 kms away would no doubt have taken us another three hours to reach. The Temple was fascinating and we saw the many turtles of wisdom. There were many university students here coming to seek blessing for their exams - there were mainly girls in their white robes . I bought charms for my two children who are at university back home!
Lunch - we had this at Koto which is a famous restaurant similar to 15 by Jamie Oliver. It is owned by Jimmy Cham a much loved chef who teaches disadvantaged youth to cook and they man this famous eating destination. The lunch was lovely but not as good as that from Yen Duc village. We caught a taxi back to our hotel but this one scammed us. It was rung by the restaurant but the young chap professed to be lost and did not turn off the meter .
Food on Foot Walk around Hanoi - Vietnam Awesome Travel $25USD
What a marvellous experience our guide Johnny was a fountain of knowledge he explained so many non food related facts to us. The one that I found most fascinating was one that pertained to the street that we lived/hotelled at. We - lucky as ever- had unwittingly chosen a hotel Thaison Grand which is situated on "headstone and second coffin street. Second coffin? I hear you ask , yes you read correctly , the Vietnamese have two coffins one for the first funeral a timber one (this one comes with a huge headstone which has a eulogy on it) and the second a small metal one with a smaller headstone which has a photograph of the deceased on it. The body rests in the first coffin for 5-7 years and then is dug up between 1-3 am and the bones are washed and placed in the second coffin and buried in their final resting place.
Now for the food, our first stop was at a restaurant in silver street, here we enjoyed Vietnamese hand rolled spring rolls with Turmeric Butter Fish this was actually a meal which we had also had at Yen Duc . Johnny kindly hand rolled them for us but after his huge coughing fit I offered to do it myself.
We strolled around Old Quarter and learnt about the 5 gates to get into the old city of which there is only one left. Rice paper noodle rolls filled with minced pork and mushrooms with a piquant dipping sauce these were very delicate and were washed down with freshly squashed sugar cane juice. Almost immediately after the refreshing juice we had sticky rice flour balls with a plan sugar cube inside them just like my elder sister makes .
Johnny kindly offered us a very tempting sounding eel dish to be followed by hand collected snails but we were very full and politely declined. He was very upset as he normally takes people to at least six street food stalls. We kept exploring the fascinating region and stopped to buy kites, I bought one for my darling husband. Johnny kept trying to do his job by offering us food he even offered to get us take away, but even I said no - and those who know me well know that I love to take home treats.
To his great dismay we were very excited to see a bakery which had been highly recommended, we begged to go in. Poor Johnny was out of his comfort zone in this western style upmarket bakery/cafe Jama so I offered to be tour guide instead. We ordered a selection of cakes and drinks, the best being Liz's coconut cake. Jama was declared a romantic spot by unlucky in love Johnny, he vowed to take his next date their to impress her.
Our lovely guide pleaded with us to please eat one more street food and although barely able to walk we agreed, because that's the way we are , polite, never wanting to hurt the feelings of a well meaning tour Guide. This time we enjoyed fruit salad with shaved ice and condensed milk, a treat which I have enjoyed quite often with my family.
This little adventure had taken 3 hours so we started walking back to the hotel. We had a little rest on a street corner where we bought 6 T shirts so that we weren't cluttering up the foot path for no reason. It was a novel way of shopping , you choose the design you want and the vendor screams heavenward and next minute the correct size and colour almost hits you on the head as it is aimed at you from an upstairs window, Purchases in hand off we strolled enjoying the balmy Hanoi weather, four hours later we were safely back at our hotel ready to rest up for our next big adventure !
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