Yen Duc Village 26th -27th of June

Initially we had booked two nights on the Indochina Junk, but when we changed our itinerary around we were unable to do that. The company offered that we stay in a village for the night instead , I was dubious about this as they offered working in the rice paddy as entertainment and I could not muster much enthusiasm about working in soaring temperatures wading knee deep in mud plus I don't even like rice ( yes I know that's odd for an Asian girl). So we hesitatingly clambered aboard the bus not realising what a treat the were in for.

I must impress upon you that I do not have the words to express just how perfect our experience at  Yen Duc Village was. We were taken to our private villa by our tiny personal tour guide Cuc (pronounced Cook), the villa was newly built in 2012 and was modelled on a traditional Vietnamese house- with a large alter in the centre of the room and two beds either side. We were shown to our bedroom and introduced to the six ladies who would be looking after our every need. After a quick freshen up and a drink of indescribably bitter fresh green tea, we went off on a tour of the village. It was lovely stretching our legs whilst walking through the village. We meandered through the rice paddies and vegetable gardens .

We met some women who were volunteer farmers at rice paddies which belong to the pagoda. The rice grown here is distributed to the poor and some is used as an altar sacrifice. The village leader welcomed us into his home and we were regaled by stories of his ancestors and shown his impressive family tree. Next we ventured off to a communal hall where leaders from others villages had come to meet so they could discuss whether they might wish to have Westerners visit their villages as well. We were given the opportunity to use the rice hulling machine, I was of course too uncoordinated but Liz was a natural. The village leaders were very keen to try this 'women's job' and had a turn as well. 

Fishing was the next activity on the agenda. The fish farms are huge dams but are awfully muddy. We were encased in what I presume must be trout waders - not flattering at all but very sensible. Then we were given a woven cane basket . The idea is that you use the basket as a third leg and blindly place it in front of you in the hope that you trap a fishy whilst doing so. If you are unlucky / lucky enough to catch a fish you put your hand in through the hole in the top to tickle it. Apparently once you and the fish are on a first name basis you snatch it up through the hole and toss it into a communal fish basket. A great way to fish to be sure! We were meant to dig up the rice paddies next but unfortunately I had a terrible headache and went off for a rest in our lovely air conditioned room.

That evening dinner was set up for us in the court yard outside our room, it was heavenly. The surrounding were gorgeous, the sun was setting in shades of vermillion and we could hear the tranquil sounds of birds singing goodnight. Our meal was incredible eight courses of traditional food, everything was either grown or caught at the village . Our guide Cuc was an extremely interesting woman who had studied Russian and English at university it was truly a memorable evening.

Sapa 29th of June

Sapa ( for some reason I can't edit my pages so have to make new ones - I will learn to merge them at a later date)


We arrived in Lao Cai at an ungodly hour of the morning , we caught the night train from Hanoi on Livitran which was meant to be a luxury trip - it was not luxury - insert unsanitary and rugged instead! Anyway once in Lao Cai we sought for a driver not knowing that our lovely hotel had organised one for us already . The climb up the mountains to Sapa reminded me of land near Mena Creek except for the lovely rice terraces. 

Sapa is a delightful village it looks like a typical French or Swiss area dotted with picturesque chalets and little castles. The welcome at the hotel was uplifting we were given complimentary early check in and headed up to their restaurant at the top of the hotel this overlooked the stunning valley. However the adventures really began when we ventured up the steep hill to the local markets when we were engulfed by a colourful group of Hmong women. We discovered that if you greet one they will follow you with their posse for the whole day, when we had our numerous coffees they waited outside the cafes. It is a real culture shock for us as in Australia it would be considered stalking but here it is a way of making a livelihood.  There are so many minority tribes here just trying to eke out a living it is awe inspiring to see how happy people are with so little, it is humbling when I reflect on how much we "want want want". This being said I must confess thatI have bought a gorgeous handwoven blanket for my baby and still wish to buy four more. I assuage myself of my guilt knowing that this will feed these families for several months.

Anyway today was quite an adventure we had signed up for a leisurely coach tour to visit two minority tribes and a waterfall. Down the spiral staircase we come , eager for the relaxing road trip,( at this point I still assumed that the trekking shoes we had been advised to hire were only for when we cavorted in the crystal clear streams.) wrong - we were greeted by a gorgeous Black Mong woman who dressed in Flower Mong attire ( because she hates the indigo dye of her traditional garb tinting here skin the colour of a young smurfette). Ah - our lovely guide happily informed us we would be doing a gentle trek  to the base of the Fansipan mountains to visit two villages just two little legs of journey one of 12km and the other of 3-4, I was horrified but couldn't let my friends down so wanly nodded.

At the 200 m point up a steep hill through the village I was already puffed. Anyway I soldiered on
up hill and and down picturesque dale beside rice paddies and fields of indigo and corn. We were followed by ten Mong women, who weren't allowed to sell to us on the trail but know that once we sat d own to eat we would be fair game, anyway it was lucky for me because the lady who adopted me was obviously part Sherpa and she had a grip like a steel vice which she applied to my weak wrist to stop me from plummeting to my death.



A journal of my adventures

Pre - Vietnam 

4nights to go
 
5 nights to go
 
My home - Yorkey's Knob Beach
18th of June 2013
Preparing for my journey to Vietnam has been labour intensive to say the least! I have probably spent longer preparing each teeny detail than I will actually spend on my holiday. I have almost driven my husband crazy with my day by day itinerary and the poor thing isn't even going!
 
 To do list
 1. Print Vietair tickets
 2.Print World Nomad Tickets
 3.Organise scales
 4. Enquire about Easy Rider tours 
 Our prebooked tour - 2 nights at Halong Bay